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trainman
06-24-2011, 02:35 PM
I was looking for toggle switches for the Gator and on another forum they said the JD toggle switches were made by Carling, I typed in Carling Switches on e-bay and found these, http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=carling+switches Does anyone know if Carling is the manufacture of the JD switches used on there tractors, mowers, Gators, etc., if the hole size on the Gators will accept these switches there are many to pick from. Most are marine quality, so waterproof would be standard and a lot of the marine switches could be used on the Gator, names such as Horn, Front Lights, Rear Lights, Interior Lights, would just be some that would work on the Gator.

John

CaptDan
06-24-2011, 02:44 PM
Not sure about those switches, but someone posted in a different thread on here that Ace Auto parts sells a switch that is an exact match for the JD switch, fits in the existing dash holes perfectly. Part number was 3135472 $7.00 each. Just fyi in case this helps you.

Dan

trainman
06-24-2011, 06:44 PM
The Ace switch which will most likely work has square corners and is a 15A switch, these are rounded corners and 20A rated, so not exact, but close, JD factory switches are rated at 20A. I was just trying to find the manufacture that JD uses for their switches and I think this might be the one (Carling). The Ace switches are half the price, so they are the better buy if you don't want a 20A switch. I just was bored today and thought I would see what I could find out about who made JD's toggle switches, plus some might like different wording on their switches.
John

CaptDan
06-24-2011, 11:34 PM
John,

I agree, having the wording on the switch would be great. Please keep us posted with anything you find out.

Dan

purplewg
06-27-2011, 07:10 AM
The Ace switch which will most likely work has square corners and is a 15A switch, these are rounded corners and 20A rated, so not exact, but close, JD factory switches are rated at 20A. I was just trying to find the manufacture that JD uses for their switches and I think this might be the one (Carling). The Ace switches are half the price, so they are the better buy if you don't want a 20A switch. I just was bored today and thought I would see what I could find out about who made JD's toggle switches, plus some might like different wording on their switches.
John

The ACE switch works I have them installed. You really don't need over 15 amps till you go over two lamps at 100W (200W). I am running 2x100W lamps on the 15 amp ACE switch with no problem mainly because the lamp relay is carrying all the current. The toggle switch just turns on the relay. I suspect a 5 amp switch would do that.

CaptDan
06-27-2011, 10:57 AM
The ACE switch works I have them installed. You really don't need over 15 amps till you go over two lamps at 100W (200W). I am running 2x100W lamps on the 15 amp ACE switch with no problem mainly because the lamp relay is carrying all the current. The toggle switch just turns on the relay. I suspect a 5 amp switch would do that.

Actually, two 100 watt lamps = 16.67 amps, so a 20 amp switch should be used in this case.

The formula for amps is watts divided by voltage.

purplewg
06-27-2011, 08:48 PM
Actually, two 100 watt lamps = 16.67 amps, so a 20 amp switch should be used in this case.

The formula for amps is watts divided by voltage.

I understand the calculation CaptDan. I was only trying to point out the light relay handles the real current draw of the lamps not the switch if wired correctly. The switch should only energize the relay.:Thmup:

CaptDan
06-27-2011, 09:06 PM
I understand the calculation CaptDan. I was only trying to point out the light relay handles the real current draw of the lamps not the switch if wired correctly. The switch should only energize the relay.:Thmup:


10-4
Capt Dan

PeteWI
07-06-2011, 03:24 PM
I too am looking for a switch. I want to hook up my Warn wireless remote fog lamps. I want to switch between a hot connection and a switched connection to hook up the lights. That way I can switch the lights while camping to the hot lead and turn the lights on from my tent if someone or something comes into the campsite while not having the key turned on. I can then switch over to a switched lead when I am normally using the lights thus not accidently turning on the lights. I have looked into what JD switches will give me these options and have eliminated the headlight switch because it has the wrong configuration. I want the switch to match the other switches I have on the dash. Any help would be appreciated.

trainman
07-06-2011, 11:41 PM
Not the best electrician, but I can usually figure it out if I put it on paper. I think a SPDT (3 position switch) will work, the wire to the fog lights would be on the center post, then if you flip the switch up this would turn on the fog lights if this wire was tied into a switched power wire from the Gators wiring harness, then if the switch was switched all the way down to the bottom this would turn on the lights from a wire that is powered all the time from the Gators wiring harness, but somewhere on this terminal between the power from the Gator and the switch on this terminal you would have to put the remote in line that turns the power on an off from your remote location, this way you would have to turn the lights on at the Gator and then switch them off at the remote, thus the remote is controlling the lights. I have a post in the forum somewhere that someone told me that RED wires are hot all the time and YELLOW wires are switches wires, but I will look for the post and correct this if wrong. Biggest problem I see here is that most Fog Lights draw a lot of power use relays to switch the lights on an off, so that's something to think about that may have to be done. Be sure to use switches that can handle the power load, I think 20A will work. I'm sure that JD has a SPDT switch used somewhere in there Gators or Tractors which most use the same switches, you will just have to find what accessory it is use on. If anyone wants to join in an correct me on what I said, do it, I'm still in a learning process, I need all the help I can get.

PS, PeteWI, just wanted to tell I was born in Rhinelander, WI., but now live in Ft. Worth, Texas

John

purplewg
07-07-2011, 07:12 AM
Trainman, I think you are right on with your thoughts. I have drawn it out on paper (that helps me also) but I think the SPDT switch can be wired into a single lamp relay with a piggy back connector. The SPDT will only provide power to the relay to energize it from one source at a time so that should not be a problem. Flip it to one side and the relay gets energized by the switch power. Flip it the other and it gets energized by the "always hot" lead. I have remote control Warn lights on my Gator and there is a control module unlike normal fog light relays. You would need to study it and energize it with a relay from the SPDT switch or your remote won't work. I am sure it can be done but I would try to draw it all out before I started.

PeteWI
07-07-2011, 12:35 PM
Trainman, I was thinking in the same direction as you described. The wire to the Warn controler is very small and just controlls the on/off of the remote. The power is actually fed through a heavy wire to the battery. The problem is finding the switch from JD or Carling to match the current switches. I like things to look good and function properly. Can anyone help with a part number for a switch that would fit these requirements. Thanks PS Wisconsin has a pilot program allowing UTV's upto 65" wide on ATV trails in select counties.

Jack Jennings
10-14-2011, 09:57 AM
Thank you John for the eBay lead. I THINK it has solved my switching problem for the new lights I putting on my wife's 2004 HPX with the Austrian glass Custom Cab to use with a 72" Bercomac snowblower that is now on order. The Custom Cab has four light mounting brackets, two in front and two in back. It also has a switch panel over the windshield that has four 1.1605" x 2.676" knockouts for mounting switches. Only one of these is used now, for the windshield wiper switch. Switches don't mount directly in these knock outs, but fit in an adapter (JD Part #M152116 housing) that also contains a fuse holder. I looked at the John Deere BM21651 ? Front light kit ? deluxe cab which has two 55 watt Hella halogen lights and cost $258.00 along with John Deere BM21652 Rear light kit which costs $191.00. $450 seemed to be too much to spend for three lights so I searched and found that http://www.truckntow.com/ sells Hella Dual-Beam Work Light - SKU: BH025 for $49.99 each (+ shipping). They arrived today and each light has TWO 55-watt lamps with separate leads to each lamp. I've ordered three of the John Deere housings and will be ordering three on-off-on double pole switches from an eBay vendor for $4.50 each + shipping. I plan to wire one switch for each light with the left hand "ON" position turning on one lamp and the right hand "ON" position turning on both lamps in each of the three lights. This arrangement SHOULD allow me to put as much light as I want, where I want it, while controlling how much power I'm pulling from the electrical system. I haven't pulled the switch panel yet but figure the wiring harness that is already in place is only designed to handle the total 165 watts pulled by the JD lights. Since this would be about 13 amps, it may be only #14 wire, so I might need to pull some heavier wire up from the battery. I have a gas model HPX with the small alternator and don't want to shell out extra money for the heavy duty one, so I'll be careful with my juice usage. I'll let you know how this works. Comments are solicited (I need all the help I can get!)

Darth Gator
10-14-2011, 05:41 PM
The switches on my ride are Eaton (http://www.eaton.com/Eaton/index.htm) switches.

Check out this product guide (http://www.eaton.com/Electrical/USA/ProductsandServices/AutomationandControl/VehicleandCommercialControls/Rockers/80068007EUROSR/index.htm) for a possible match to current rockers... 8006/8007 Euro SR version.

Jack Jennings
12-26-2011, 12:17 AM
Be aware that Gators with the Deluxe cab use a different size switch in the overhead panel than is used in the dash. The overhead panel has four knockouts. Mine only used one for the windshield wiper switch. Also note that these switches sit in "housings" that also hold fuses. I have not found a supplier for the housings and ordered mine from JD. The housing part number is M152116. The switch size is 22mm x 44mm. I installed dual lamp Hella lights on my wife's HPX at a fraction of the $258 for the JD package. I ordered switches from Allied Electronics.

pahawi
12-26-2011, 04:30 PM
Be aware that Gators with the Deluxe cab use a different size switch in the overhead panel than is used in the dash. Also note that these switches sit in "housings" that also hold fuses.

And remember that if you add these switches, you need to put in the housing first and then the switch.

VictoriaFarm
12-29-2011, 12:14 AM
My switch on my Gator was manufactuered by Eaton. I looked on their website and they make hundreds of different switches with all types of graphics and options. Look at http://www.eaton.com/Electrical/USA/Support/Documentation/Catalogs/index.htm under Volume 11 - Vehicle and Commercial Controls. You can get anything you wish to personalize your application.