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View Full Version : Help me fix my rusty 6x4



ehatcher
11-22-2011, 09:50 PM
My 2007 Gator is rusty. I believe the previous owner frequently drove this machine in deep mud, never washed it, and stored it outside.

You can see in this picture (thats my wife who LOVES this thing) that the side or the bed has rust.
http://ehatcher.smugmug.com/Other/John-Deere/i-4QKjnxj/0/L/1001159-L.jpg

Everywhere I look on this gator there are spots where the paint is flaking off and rust has started. There are no through holes, everything appears to be just on the surface.

I plan to keep this machine long term, so what is the best way to address the rust?

The most drastic method would be to strip everything off the frame and have it sandblasted and epoxy painted. I can do this locally for about $500-700. I would prefer to avoid this both from a cost and labor standpoint. I am guessing 20 - 30 hours to strip everything off and at least double that to get it all back on.

Next method I was considering was just to strip all the plastic, wheels, etc. (leaving controls, wiring, and other time consuming bits in place) and use a rust converter/POR 15 or other product. I have no experience with these sort of coatings so I don't know how well they work. Maybe I would spend even more time trying to clean it up this way?

Thoughts, advice or experiences?

Eric

purplewg
11-23-2011, 09:36 AM
This is what I did. http://www.johndeeregatorforum.com/forum/showthread.php?10603-The-rust-bucket-%28pics-for-your-viewing-pleasure%29

The bed and floorboard area seems to be the most susceptible to rust. The bed can be removed, sanded, sprayed with a rust converter and the use Herculiner under and inside it. I probably would just do the whole thing inside out. Under the floor board area, I would pressure wash, blow dry, treat any areas with peeling paint, prime with a red oxide primer and then spray several cans of rubberized undercoating over it or stand it up and Herculine the bottom of it also. Make sure every thing is completely dry before applying any sealers. POR 15 is a very good product and I have used it on a steel stock trailer with excellent results but it is not cheap.

ehatcher
11-23-2011, 10:04 AM
This is what I did. http://www.johndeeregatorforum.com/forum/showthread.php?10603-The-rust-bucket-%28pics-for-your-viewing-pleasure%29

The bed and floorboard area seems to be the most susceptible to rust. The bed can be removed, sanded, sprayed with a rust converter and the use Herculiner under and inside it. I probably would just do the whole thing inside out. Under the floor board area, I would pressure wash, blow dry, treat any areas with peeling paint, prime with a red oxide primer and then spray several cans of rubberized undercoating over it or stand it up and Herculine the bottom of it also. Make sure every thing is completely dry before applying any sealers. POR 15 is a very good product and I have used it on a steel stock trailer with excellent results but it is not cheap.

Yours came out very nice, but it looks like your Gator frame was originally painted, I think my frame was powder coated. I am starting to wonder if mine was driven through something caustic/corrosive that caused a reaction: there are many areas were the coating is peeling away in large flakes because the rust has formed underneath. In other words, the coating was not damaged, it seems to be just popping off. The rust has formed in many place that are difficult to get to.

Perhaps when the time comes to do this thing and I pull the wheels and plastics off I will get an idea just how far I need to go. I really don't want to strip everything but if I have to, I will.

I like the idea of bedliner for the footwell, bed and bottom, I think that is the way I will go.

The plastics on this one are in pretty good shape. The middle part of the front end is cracked, but I bet that can be welded cleanly from behind so it does not show. The rear fenders are beat up but they are cheap to replace. The rest of it can be brought back with a little fine grit plastic polish and elbow grease. The wife wants to keep it factory green/yellow or I would do what you did - the camo looks nice.

Fortunately I bought this thing cheap enough that we can justify the work/money.

Eric

purplewg
11-23-2011, 12:24 PM
Eric, my frame was powder coated and I believe that is why it rusted and broke in two. The frame flexes and cracks the powder-coat. Then water gets in there and boom, rust! I don't like to see powder-coating on anything that vibrates or flexes. The reason mine looked painted was, it was. Someone "touched" it up using shaker cans.