Misc. Little Gator Upgrades

[Dane]

I did not want to hijack Mountaingoat's thread so here are some little odds n ends I've done to my Gator this rainy Sunday.

I made a simple hitch for our garden wagons. I made it slightly longer so I wouldn't bang my head as often when reaching underneath to hitch-up. I offset the tab to the top to help prevent digging into anything when backing up. It's made from a scrap piece 2x2" square tubing.

Does anyone know what this type of hitch is called? I don't know if you'd call it a pintle?

http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/ad67/pilotdane2/2012/Gator/Misc%20Upgrades/Hitch1.jpg

I also finally got around to mounting my favorite license plate. It's reflective so it counts as a safety item. :BG:

http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/ad67/pilotdane2/2012/Gator/Misc%20Upgrades/Hitch2.jpg

[Dane]

I've added some automobile LED daylight running lights (DRL) to the rear canopy as work lights. I thought of using one high powered LED flood light but was afraid I'd be blinded by the sun when facing it and working in hard shadows when turned away. The DRL's each are about 6in wide so the light source is spread over a larger area. There are still shadows when you have your back to the Gator but they get smaller the closer I get to the Gator.

http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/ad67/pilotdane2/2012/Gator/Misc%20Upgrades/RearLights.jpg

http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/ad67/pilotdane2/2012/Gator/Misc%20Upgrades/RearLightscloseup.jpg

http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/ad67/pilotdane2/2012/Gator/Lights%20Install/Light%20Test/RearLights.jpg

I hunt mostly at night and wanted some low interior light to get my gear together without killing my night vision. I've added some red LED light strips to the rear ROPS bar.

http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/ad67/pilotdane2/2012/Gator/Misc%20Upgrades/InteriorLightscloseup.jpg

http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/ad67/pilotdane2/2012/Gator/Lights%20Install/Light%20Test/RedInterior.jpg

[Dane]

Today I worked to address some minor rattling with the dump bed.

First I pulled the latch pins and put on one layer of electrical tape. It helped with the finer, higher pitched rattling but I could still hear the bed rattling up and down.

http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/ad67/pilotdane2/2012/Gator/Misc%20Upgrades/BedLatchPins.jpg

Next I put a rubber bumper next to each bed latch so there is always tension on the latch. This helped quite a bit but once that big rattle was taken care of I could hear the rear, pivot pins rattling.

http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/ad67/pilotdane2/2012/Gator/Misc%20Upgrades/BedLatchPinwbumper.jpg

Then I stuck bumpers in back near the pivots. In the picture I balanced the bumper on the frame where I wanted it to hit and then closed the bed to stick it in place. It worked beautifully for about 10 minutes and a few bed closings. Even though the frame where the bumper hits is about 1/8" wide and squared off it's enough to cut through my bumper. Back to the drawing board.

http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/ad67/pilotdane2/2012/Gator/Misc%20Upgrades/BedPivotBumper.jpg

[Dane]

Here you can see where the rubber pad stuck to the bottom of the bed and how it's being cut by the bracket. I think there is a bit of sliding action as the bed closes that's doing the cutting.

http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/ad67/pilotdane2/2012/Gator/Misc%20Upgrades/BedPivotBumperfail.jpg


This pad mounted further from the hinge is hitting the bottom edge of the U channel frame but is holding up well. It provides a little support and minimizes vibration which cut out 3/4 of the rattle in the rear pins.

http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/ad67/pilotdane2/2012/Gator/Misc%20Upgrades/BedPivotBumperWorking.jpg

[Dane]

I have never liked the plastic lettering for the gear levers. Seems like they should have silk screened or painted them to be more visible. So, I painted a little oil based enamal for plastic models onto the top of the lettering using a toothpick as a applicator. I almost stuck with just yellow & green to keep it JD but decided to differentiate neutral a bit.

http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/ad67/pilotdane2/2012/Gator/Misc%20Upgrades/ColoredLettering.jpg

http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/ad67/pilotdane2/2012/Gator/Misc%20Upgrades/ColoredLettering2.jpg

[Dane]

I had some inch thick sound & heat insulating foil backed foam lying around in the hangar so I cut a strip about 1 1/2" wide and applied it to the plastic flange where the front edge of the dump bed closes. The foam seals off the slight gap which is a direct path for sound to the cab area.

http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/ad67/pilotdane2/2012/Gator/Misc%20Upgrades/SoundFoam.jpg

This one strip of foam did more quieting than all the other sound material I applied to the underside. It's not a huge improvement but it is noticeable and so easy to do that it makes it worthwhile. I have not used it enough to tell if it will help limit dust in the cab area but it looks like it might help a bit.

[mountaingoat]

Hey Dane, I'm going to try your bed seal. I live three miles down a dirt road and eat my share of dust! I'm also ordering some black ABS plastic to cover the tank, and battery opening. Thanks for posting the info! mountaingoat.1485

[DIXIEDOG]

Nice upgrades :Thmup:

[Dane]

The foam seal at the dump bed does help with dust and debris getting blown back up into the cab when at high speed. It seems to cut out about half of it. Unfortunately, I've not been able to see the path the remaining crud is taking to get to the cab. Has anyone noticed if dust gets sucked all the way up from the stern/rear of the dump bed, around the sides or the area under the dump bed in front of the tires?

[MBDiagMan]

It's looking good Dane! Insulation in the HANGAR? Are you a pilot? I am too. I have a Cessna 140, and I'm hoping to have enough cleared area for a grass strip after the pipeliners get finished.

Doc

[Dane]

I should more accurately say I was a pilot. Long ago I built a RV-6A which I flew for 8 or 10 years. I sold it just before the economic meltdown and it's been a couple years since I've been PIC.

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee177/pilotdane/Airplane/completed4.jpg

[MBDiagMan]

Wow, that's a nice looking RV. Good timing for selling it. I expect aircraft prices have not yet hit bottom.

Once a pilot, always a pilot!

Doc

[nowaczykv]

Great Ideas. I want to do the interior LED lights also. I have one electrical switch still open. but was thinking of tying it to the front lights so when they are on so is the interior LEDS. Would you agree or have a seprate switch?

[Dane]

I think it depends on whether or not you want to have some light while letting your eyes adapt to darkness and if you want to be able to use the interior lights when the key is off.

I like having them on a separate switch and a always on circuit for when I go out hunting at night. I turn off the outside white lights and have the red interior ones so my eyes can start to adapt as I'm getting ready to head out including putting the key in an interior pocket. And if you've ever dropped the keys out in the bush in pitch dark you'll realize how helpful that red glow can be. I also sometimes leave the interior lights on when I go out if it's an especially dark night. They draw minimal current (40ma total) and the red glow makes it much easier to find the Gator in the dark.

If you are not worried about preserving your night vision I'd use white interior lights and have them come on with the headlights. The little strip lights I used are available in six different colors. And, mounted on the rear ROPS cross tube gets them high enough that I do not get a glare off the windscreen.

[MBDiagMan]

I think it depends on whether or not you want to have some light while letting your eyes adapt to darkness and if you want to be able to use the interior lights when the key is off.

I like having them on a separate switch and a always on circuit for when I go out hunting at night. I turn off the outside white lights and have the red interior ones so my eyes can start to adapt as I'm getting ready to head out including putting the key in an interior pocket. And if you've ever dropped the keys out in the bush in pitch dark you'll realize how helpful that red glow can be. I also sometimes leave the interior lights on when I go out if it's an especially dark night. They draw minimal current (40ma total) and the red glow makes it much easier to find the Gator in the dark.

If you are not worried about preserving your night vision I'd use white interior lights and have them come on with the headlights. The little strip lights I used are available in six different colors. And, mounted on the rear ROPS cross tube gets them high enough that I do not get a glare off the windscreen.


Hmmm..... sounds like the experience of someone who has done some night flying.:Thmup:

[2011Raptor]

Dane do you know I guy named Jim L. that just finished a 7 a couple months ago around GSP? Jim is an engineer for Boeing. That was my 7 he bought and finished.
Sorry about the thread creep..

[jakerator]

Dane, back to your original question, I would call that a "draw bar' hitch. A pintle hitch has a mechanism that opens like a "C" and connects to the trailer that would have a large loop end on it. The "C" then closes and locks. Sorry I don't have a picture, but that is the best description I can do for now.
And finally,... nice job on the mods.
Jake

[MBDiagMan]

Yeah what you properly call a Pintle hitch, I call a military hitch. That's what we had on most all tactical army vehicles.

[Dane]

In another thread I mentioned the little heater I use for defrosting the windshield and I realized that I forgot to post pictures. Surprisingly this cheap little heater works quite well at keeping the area in front of the driver's position clear. The heater is useless for actually heating but it makes a great defroster.

It's an cheap 200 watt heater I ordered from JC Whitney and it plugs into the cigarette lighter. If you're thinking that 200 watts sounds a bit much for the 10amp fuse on the circuit you are correct. The heater will run for about a minute before the fuse blows. I've run new 12ga wires with a fuse directly from the battery to the cigarette lighter outlet. The mount is just some scrap aluminum that I bent to hold the heater mostly vertical and provides the stability. The whole contraption is prevented from sliding about by a few pieces of adhesive velcro. I only stick the heater in place when I'm going out at night.

http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/ad67/pilotdane2/2012/Gator/Misc%20Upgrades/Heater1.jpg

http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/ad67/pilotdane2/2012/Gator/Misc%20Upgrades/Heater2.jpg

[vanderrt]

Dane,
Does Navada require you to license XUVs? I thinking about relocating to the Carson City/Reno area for retirement.

[Dane]

I'm not sure if you're joking. I even had some folks around here ask what "CRAPS" meant.

[vanderrt]

No sorry I thought you actually had to license your Gator and you could buy special licenses (Craps) like on autos. Here on Padre Island we are allowed to drive them on the street without licenses as long as we don't venture out on the hiway. Most roads are 30 MPH. Sorry for the confusion.:reye:

[Dane]

Nope it's a touristy souvenir plate I picked up in Las Vegas long ago.