I need help :(

[zingerbateman]

Hello, I'm new here and I'm sorry if this isn't the right category for my question. My gator just up and quit. I ran out of gas and after refueling, it started to turn over then nothing? No click, no lights, nothing. I've searched the internet and cannot find my model's age. You guys somehow figure it out so here goes. Serial no. W004x2x010674. The engine s/n is FE290D168212. I've installed a new battery, new ignition switch to no avail. I had a friend come over and we determined that there was continuity between solonoid and switch. Can I jump across the terminal and hotside of the solonoid to see if it will turn over? Also, is there any inline fuse to look for? Ive traced the entire wire harness and can't find any fuse. I am out of ideas and hope anyone can give me something else to try. It's hay season and you know how valuable a gator is to hauling around the beer cooler! Thanks, Kim

[zingerbateman]

it must be a hard problem to figure out so I'll go ahead and replace the solenoid next. thanks

[emnesto]

Without a schematic, I'd be using a voltmeter to do some testing before replacing the solenoid. Hook it up to the switch side of the solenoid and turn the key on and to Start. If you don't see any voltage, replacing the solenoid won't buy you anything. If you see voltage, but don't hear a click when you turn the key to start, then you might need to replace the solenoid.

My experience with the Gator is with a new model, but it seems the solid yellow wire is hot when the key is on. You might try connecting the voltmeter between the solid yellow and ground. There should be 0 volts with the key off and 12V with the key on.

Is there any chance, when you were figuring out that you ran out of gas, that you knocked some connection loose, or even disconnected something on purpose. How about when you installed the new battery. On mine there's a big black ground wire to the engine, but there's also several other ground wires going to most other accessories. Any chance you missed connecting all of the wires to the battery.

This is where I'd start looking. Hope it gives you some ideas to get your Gator moving.

[GATORDONE]

That is a 1995 model yr gator. x2 on what emnesto say's to check.

[zingerbateman]

Thanks guys. We jumped it across the solenoid and it started right up as long as the key was in the on position. There's a purple wire that connects to the terminal tab and goes up to the ignition switch. There's a red wire that connects along with the hot from the battery on the solenoid. He's on his way home so we'll check voltage as instructed. Thanks.

[zingerbateman]

does anyone know where I can get a schematic for a 1995 gator? It has to be an electrical problem because I just put in a new solenoid and still nothing. I have a guy coming over tonight with a volt meter and more knowledge than me. And to answer Emnesto question, when it ran out of gas, we just put gas in it and it wouldnt start, click, nothing. Acted like a complete drained battery. My big black wire is grounded ontop of engine along with another gnd wire. Red on battery has another red wire that I believe goes to the voltage reg (heatsink looking thing) mounted on side of frame. Where the red cable from battery connects to solenoid, there's another red wire with terminal that hooks up there too. On bottom terminal of solenoid, it only is connected to the gnd on starter. Then the purple wire from harness is hooked to blade lug on solenoid. I can't see any other wires that are not hooked up? Getting frustrated to say the least!

[emnesto]

OK. I don't have the schematic for your Gator, but I do have it for my new one. Sure there may be differences as you get further and further from the battery, but maybe closer to the battery may be the same.

The Black neg battery wire goes straight to the engine, with a split to the chassis. I think we can assume that's working, since you could get the starter running by jumping the solenoid.

The Red pos battery takes two paths. The heavier cable goes to the solenoid. No fuses in this path. Again, this must be working, since you could get the starter running by jumping the solenoid.

There's a smaller Red wire that goes from the battery to a "fusable Link". I don't know what this looks like, but there should be a Red wire going in and another Red wire coming out.

The Red wire coming from the fusable link should go into a fuse block, or a group of fuses.

The instructions for diagnosing total power failure say to test power at the fuse block. You should have 12V on the incoming side (connected to the Red wire from the fusable link). If not, check the fusable link. If you do have 12V on the incoming side, check voltage on the outgoing side (after the fuse). Or remove each fuse and check continuity. No continuity, replace the fuse.

To check the fusable link, check voltage on red wire going into the link. Should be 12V. Check volts on the output side. Should also be 12V. If no volts coming out, the fusable link is your problem. I'm not sure if there's a part to be replaced, or you need to replace the whole thing.

Here's something else to consider. In general there's no connection between running out of gas and loosing all electrical power. Is it possible you were getting low on gas, but not out. When the electric failed (for some reason to be determined) you made an out of gas assumption. Do you know for sure the tank was dry when you refilled it? If the fusable link, or other fuses, blew, chances are they will blow again as soon as they are replaced. Just thinking out loud.

[emnesto]

In an earlier post you said "... Red on battery has another red wire that I believe goes to the voltage reg (heatsink looking thing) mounted on side of frame...". I think this might be the fusable link. Is there a red wire in and a red wire out? Check voltage on both sides. If zero on out side, this might be the problem. Of course there still could be something causing the link to fail.

If this is the fusable link, and there are red wires in and out, and this were my Gator, I would do the following:

Turn off all the switches and the key so nothing will be coming ON if the test works;

Make a jumper to connect one side to the other of the fusable link, but only connect one side;

Quickly, very briefly, touch the other end of the jumper to the other side of the fusable link;

If I got a big spark, something has to be causing a short. I'll need to find it.

If no big spark, I'd go ahead and hold the jumper in place and turn the key to start the Gator. If it starts, I would definitely replace the fusable link.

[emnesto]

Any update?

[zingerbateman]

I have a mechanic coming in the am. I'll let you know how it goes. He told me not to replace anything else until he checks it out. Thank you for all your info. I've printed it all out so we've got something to go by. Kim

[zingerbateman]

well, it appears that the wiring harness that goes from the ignition switch down under the floor pan to the back had vibrated/rubbed the wires right where they enter the floor pan. I have my gator back and I guess a bunch of new parts! Thank you everyone for all your help. There was no way to see, but it's fixed never the less!! Kim

[appyacres]

If it is the fusible link you can get them at any auto-parts store. Had one go out on a 2011 CX once and it was a real pain to replace. In case it ever goes out in the future I put bullet connectors inline so I can just buy a new link, add female bullet connectors and plug it in.

The fusible link was found off the small red wire from the battery. After the link there were three wires connected, That was the hardest part to splice back together.