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Bunky
11-15-2013, 05:25 PM
I finally got the winch completely installed. I would like to thank all the previous posters for their feedback since it made a difference in the process.

Here is the installation process:

Removed the hood to get clean access

http://angphoto.smugmug.com/Other/Gator-1/i-zzPbr8K/0/X3/ANG_2419-1-X3.jpg

Made a cardboard template to locate, checking clearances, and for drilling holes

http://angphoto.smugmug.com/Other/Gator-1/i-tNXTZ8C/0/X3/ANG_2420-2-X3.jpg

Solenoid installed

http://angphoto.smugmug.com/Other/Gator-1/i-F3D7T5s/0/X3/ANG_2425-3-X3.jpg

Made a JD like wiring hardness to tap into the switched power plus a new input for other attachments. I purchased the connectors/contacts from Performance Connection Solutions - fast delivery.

http://angphoto.smugmug.com/Other/Gator-1/i-nWpvFxS/0/X3/ANG_2426-4-X3.jpg

Glovebox removed to drill hole for remote.

http://angphoto.smugmug.com/Other/Gator-1/i-p5bMf2q/0/X3/ANG_2428-5-X3.jpg

Glovebox re-installed with remote installed showing clearance of screws. need to keep low

http://angphoto.smugmug.com/Other/Gator-1/i-7BfbVkK/0/X3/ANG_2429-6-X3.jpg

Interior glove box view with remote connection

http://angphoto.smugmug.com/Other/Gator-1/i-sCtbR9h/0/X3/ANG_2430-7-X3.jpg

Wiring harness added to connection on driver's side. Ran wiring from switch/remote in convoluted tubing for clean look

http://angphoto.smugmug.com/Other/Gator-1/i-3CKZDX3/0/X3/ANG_2437-8-X3.jpg

Wiring from remote and dash swtich (red wires) tied to connector going into wiring harness. I cut off the piggy back connectors from handle bar swtich since I was using my own switch.

http://angphoto.smugmug.com/Other/Gator-1/i-MjxVTHr/0/X3/ANG_2439-9-X3.jpg

Dash switches ready for pre-testing. The winch switch is a Contura marine switch (got off ebay) and the off/on switch for power was a Euro style from Allied Electronics done CaptDan style

http://angphoto.smugmug.com/Other/Gator-1/i-PKk8MTw/0/X3/ANG_2440-10-X3.jpg

Switches snapped in - easy to remove if needed

http://angphoto.smugmug.com/Other/Gator-1/i-cBWtBBM/0/X3/ANG_2444-12-X3.jpg

Wiring down to winch. Used red/black to winch, yellow/ blue to battery due to length

http://angphoto.smugmug.com/Other/Gator-1/i-Kp7cFr2/0/X3/ANG_2446-13-X3.jpg

Wires going down to winch.

http://angphoto.smugmug.com/Other/Gator-1/i-mSPnPpC/0/X3/ANG_2474-1-X3.jpg

Winch installed on bracket and wired up without remote My winch end stopper had not arrived.

http://angphoto.smugmug.com/Other/Gator-1/i-xCGrN7t/0/X3/ANG_2468-1-X3.jpg

The battery mess before starting.. all those cables are mostly the wiring harness for the add on OPS switch kit and the windshield wiper. It includes more taps, breakers, etc and several unused connectors for who knows what all stuffed by the battery. To get access to under the center console (between buckets) I was able to remove one side and bent up, It looked like a job to remove the console itself (seat belt holders, etc)

http://angphoto.smugmug.com/Other/Gator-1/i-Hh9kPht/0/X3/ANG_2449-14-X3.jpg

Wires running through center channel

http://angphoto.smugmug.com/Other/Gator-1/i-TVdhVgX/0/X3/ANG_2458-18-X3.jpg

Solenoid end all wired up

http://angphoto.smugmug.com/Other/Gator-1/i-QJNRBvt/0/X3/ANG_2464-20-X3.jpg

Mounting the circuit breaker in the soap box and taped it shut

http://angphoto.smugmug.com/Other/Gator-1/i-trbDtx7/0/X3/ANG_2450-15-X3.jpg

All stuffed back in place. The ring terminal on the negative cable was too small in diameter to fit the negative post screw so had to file it so it would fit over stud.

http://angphoto.smugmug.com/Other/Gator-1/i-q4jNbCw/0/X3/ANG_2453-16-X3.jpg

Center armrest surround back in place

http://angphoto.smugmug.com/Other/Gator-1/i-kqtkRg7/0/X3/ANG_2454-17-X3.jpg


Installed wiring cleaned up somewhat after successful test

http://angphoto.smugmug.com/Other/Gator-1/i-DTtGp3K/0/X3/ANG_2462-19-X3.jpg

Finally installed with rope/stopper

http://angphoto.smugmug.com/Other/Gator-1/i-jkWBNWk/0/X3/ANG_2486-1-X3.jpg

Front view

http://angphoto.smugmug.com/Other/Gator-1/i-2bhKCzk/0/X3/ANG_2490-3-X3.jpg

Close up shot

http://angphoto.smugmug.com/Other/Gator-1/i-Xgwg8mQ/0/X3/ANG_2490-2-X3.jpg

The Cambridge metals winch bracket worked like a champ and actually easier to install than one would expect. The slotted holes on the rear screws allow you to flip the screws in place since the winch is already bolted to the frame. The connection at winch rear was not too bad.

The winch has plenty of room left to right and close at the top.

The rope was easy to install after I replaced the vinyl tape on the end and re-wrapped. It slid through easy and taped to drum along length per instructions from Superwinch.

I ordered the winch stopper from amazon. It fed easily on rope and had slots for rope protector.

The only change I plan to make it add a connection in the power feed line from remote connector to wiring harness on opposite side. I realized after installation that since the remote socket is installed from inside to remove glove box requires pulling the the power line from the tubing I added for wiring so will break the line near the solenoid.

g8erh8er
11-15-2013, 08:14 PM
Wow Bunky, excellent write up and detailed pics. This will surely help anyone planning on going this route, myself included. Thanks for taking the time to post!!

g8erh8er
11-16-2013, 12:34 AM
Bunky - one suggestion. I noticed this was posted in the Gator Showroom forum but not in the actual 825i forum. You may want to post it there as well so the 825i guys don't miss it. I only saw it because I was looking at the "new posts" page. This definitely deserves a sticky in the 825i forum.

Regarding your on/off switch. Can you clarify on the wire routing? It looks like you ran the middle red wire from the rocker switch to the on/off switch, then ran another red wire from the on/off switch to your homemade daisy chain, and there's another red wire that trails from the connector that plugs into the daisy chain and it leads toward the opposite side of the hood compartment. After that, I can't tell where it goes.

Bunky
11-16-2013, 07:50 AM
Maybe the mods can just move it if they feel people will miss it.

The red wires are the power feed lines for the remote and the handlebar switch. These are connected to the switched hot line from the harness (if attached to an always on circuit the winch could work with ignition off). One red wire is the feed for the handlebar switch and the second feeds the remote switch which is just another momentary switch.

For the handlebar switch that I converted to a dash switch, I cut off the switch end, put slip on terminals on the green/black wires and attached to the two sides of the momentary dash switch.

The red hot power wire (reused the red wire that came with the cable) for the handlebar switch was paired with the other red power wire into a connector that attached to the yellow/black wiring harness. The red wire goes from the harness to the on/off switch first and then to the center position of the momentary switch. This prevents momentary actuation (takes 2 actions, switch on, press momentary). It seemed like a good idea. If I get the turn signals, I may either move the on/off to another position or just eliminate it. With the slip on connectors, it is no big deal.

For the second red wire to the glove box remote, this ran directly from the remote connector in the glove box to the harness connection tied with the other red wire. This is the one I plan to just made a quick disconnect in case I need to remove the glove box so I will not have to go all the way to the harness to make the connection and then it tied to the wires going to the dash switch.

The way the circuit works is if you apply power to the lower terminals of the solenoid this actuates the winch. The direction it goes (in or out) depends on which side so both the remote and the dash feed feed the power to those terminals. Thus, you provide power to both the remote and the dash and if the circuit is completed the winch turns. The direction depends on whether you actuate the green or black wire of the solenoid.

The green/black wires are connected to two spade terminals at the solenoid too. The harness for the handlebar switch has a piggy back style slip on connector to allow a second spade slip so this is why I reused the handlebar cabling on the solenoid end plus it also had protective cabling.

Dane
11-16-2013, 12:05 PM
I'm glad it went well. How did your re-tape the synthetic rope? I had a bugger of a time getting mine through the hole in the winch drum.

Destiny creek
11-16-2013, 01:55 PM
Nice no excellent job . A true craftsman well done yourself
GO BRONCOS

Bunky
11-16-2013, 02:34 PM
I'm glad it went well. How did your re-tape the synthetic rope? I had a bugger of a time getting mine through the hole in the winch drum.

I think the difference was the tape width and wraps. The wrap on the rope was narrow width tape so they must have had at least 10 wraps and each wrap is an edge to be exposed when it is bent. I used 1/2-in electrical tape and maybe had 5 wraps for the same distance plus re trimmed the end - stuff did not cut easily.

This morning I unspooled it and spooled it under load to get a tighter wrap on the first layer by pulling from a tree so got to use my tree saver and clevis. When the motor is running, the lights dimmed slightly and the engine slows when the winch engage but stabilized.

I credit the lack of issues to you and others here on setting a high standard to do it right.

Dane
11-16-2013, 03:51 PM
I'll have to pay better attention the next time I use the winch to see if my motor bogs. The 550 has such a small alternator I don't know if it can drag the engine down enough to notice.

Bunky
11-16-2013, 07:55 PM
It was not anything significant. I just noticed it the first couple times I was pulsing it since I had the headlights on. I wonder if the winch warms up a little the current draw drops slightly.

lodogg1971
11-17-2013, 09:05 AM
excellent job bunky! the soap dish worked well didn't it? I had used the same for mine. easy access in the event of any troubleshooting. again FINE work buddy:Thmup:

WOEII
12-08-2013, 02:14 PM
Very nice report! :Chers: :cool:

g8erh8er
12-23-2013, 10:31 PM
Having trouble locating the yellow/black connector from the main harness. Here's what mine looks like.

2866

I do have the red/black connector - my flasher kit is plugged into it and there's an empty connector on the flasher harness so you can plug something else in. In your pics Bunky, it looks like the yellow/black connector is right next to the red/black. Did you have to dig for it?

I would prefer that the winch not be able to be activated without the key.

Bunky
12-24-2013, 07:17 AM
The yellow/black was in the same area as the red/black and it was pretty obvious. My yellow/black had electrical tape going to the base of the connector so it may not be that obvious. I do see some yellow wire.

Do you have power steering? My guess another accessory is using it so the spare may have moved.

This is what mine looked like from the factory before I messed with them. The yellow/black is next to the red/black but you do not see much of the wire going to the connector. One way to see it is has that T-style end. It is the lowest connector in this picture.

http://angphoto.smugmug.com/Detailing/ANG-Gallery/i-Gq3xNwQ/0/X3/ANG_1890-17-X3.jpg

g8erh8er
12-25-2013, 03:51 PM
Weird. I do have power steering, not sure if that would use it or not. The yellow wire in the pic is part of the flasher harness. I'll have to take a closer look this weekend. Might be buried behind something.

Bunky
12-25-2013, 07:35 PM
I received the tech manual for Christmas and if I read the schematic correctly the connection is Connection C-5 Front Attachment (yellow/black) off the main harness. One other answer is that something is using it and did not create a second connection.

The manual does not include accessory wiring diagrams..too bad.

g8erh8er
12-25-2013, 10:37 PM
Found it - sandwiched in between some other wires so you could only see it from underneath. Thanks Bunky.

Jack Jennings
12-29-2013, 06:16 PM
Very nice installation! Similar to mine but I mounted the relay between and behind the seats and the remote control socket on the left front fender. This allows me to control the winch while standing outside the cab on the driver's side. Installed the handlebar switch just under the dash.

By the way, I didn't use a SuperWinch, but a 2000# model from ProMark Offroad.

g8erh8er
01-03-2014, 12:43 AM
Just wanted to say thanks once again for the write up Bunky. I followed yours to a tee and everything went smoothly. Only difference is that I followed your advice and did the quick disconnect for the remote plug, and my two switches are in the center dash since my blinker switch takes up one of the openings on the left hand side.

Ironically, I found the most difficult part to be removing and re-installing the glove box. Man that thing is awkward to take in and out! Only change I might make is replacing my line in/out contura switch with a momentary on/off/on (if they make them). I find it really hard to get the winch line in the proper stowed position with the regular contura switch, a lot of clicking back and forth. I don't like it to be too tight against the winch saver as it pulls the hook through, and too loose makes it rattle. I found it easier to just use the remote when stowing the line so you can see what's going on up front.

Thanks again!

Bunky
01-03-2014, 02:49 PM
Great.

Yes, the glove box took some maneuvering. The wheel well hump sure got in the way. My contura switch is a momentary on / off / on. I printed some labels to mark in / out, etc. Yes, you have to do pulsing to get the winch saver snug but not too tight. One pulse does move the line a lot.

mtgator
05-10-2015, 07:39 PM
Great Job, any Idea if the 4500 fits on a 2012 825i?
mtgator

teul2
05-11-2015, 12:32 AM
It should mtgator.