Gator Ignition Switch Diagram?

[Dane]

Does anyone have or know where to find the diagram for the ignition switch used in many Gators? I'm mainly looking for what each connector does on the TCA2240 switch. Which contacts are open and closed for the various switch positions.

My Gator is at the dealer so I don't have the switch available to put a meter on it. The current engine is open, meaning the switch grounds the ignition to kill the engine. I am converting to a closed system that works opposite and contacts are held closed for the engine to run and opened to kill the engine. I'm wondering if I can accomplish this with the stock switch. I'm sure it can be done with a relay but I would like to avoid unneeded complexity.

[Bunky]

Is this what you need? This is for the 825i.



http://angphoto.smugmug.com/Other/Gator-1/i-5g6Gdnr/0/O/ScreenClip.jpg

[Bunky]

Is this what you need? This is for the 825i.


http://angphoto.smugmug.com/Other/Gator-1/i-5g6Gdnr/0/O/ScreenClip.jpg

http://angphoto.smugmug.com/Other/Gator-1/i-TgRsKn7/0/X3/switch-X3.jpg

[Dane]

Thanks. I think that's what I need. I'll double check to make sure my 550 uses the same switch but that should do it.

[xcopterdoc]

Why are you changing the elec system like that? I see you are in NC. Who is your dealer?

[Dane]

I am re-powering the Gator to simply get a reliable machine. The advice from Deere has been to get a new air filter... every 20 hours to help offset it's running extremely rich along with the advice to not let it idle or to use it for short trips. It's currently in queue waiting on a leak down test for a blown head gasket. I've never had a stock engine require so much babying and work with so few hours. The dealer graciously offered $2'500 it if I wanted to trade in on a different model so I fix it myself or take a bath.

[Bunky]

He just offered $2500?

[Dane]

Deere has admitted that idling and short trips is something the Briggs engine cannot do as it needs to run longer and harder to prevent the engine from fowling the spark plugs, washing the cylinder walls and diluting the oil. Rather embarrassing for a Gator to be ill-suited to landscape and groundskeeping work so the dealer offered $2'500 as a trade in to move up to a 625 or 825.

[Jake B]

Dane, what re-power options have you explored?

[Dane]

I started out considering all engines and even toyed with going liquid cooled but the final two contenders were the Kohler ECV630 and the Honda GX630. Both are air cooled. I decided on the Honda which in spite of it's name actually displaces 688cc and is rated for about 20.5hp.

The Kohler was more expensive at a bit over $1'500 but is fuel injected. It's slightly larger overall but the nail in it's coffin is that it's output shaft is about 7/8" higher than the original Briggs engine which would have caused trouble integrating and retaining the sealed housing around the clutches and belt. It's exhaust mounting holes are also rotated about 90 degrees from that used by the Briggs and would certainly require rework of the stock exhaust manifold.

The Honda's retail price is about $1'200 though through my work contacts I'm able to get it for an even more favorable price. I don't know which engine is a copy of the other but the dimensions of the 550's stock Briggs and the Honda are almost identical which will make integration much easier and will retain the plastic clutch enclosure. It's exhaust port orientations are similar to the Briggs though the spacing is slightly different. I'm not sure if the stock Deere exhaust will bolt up but it's going to be close enough to give it a try. Worst case it appears that modifying the Gator's exhaust will be relatively simple which will allow retaining all of it's factory heat shielding.

As part of the conversion I'll be replacing the drive clutch to one that has a more commonly available bore and that matches commonly available engines. Deere spec'd a proprietary (or simply uncommon) shaft taper on the Briggs engine and bore of the drive clutch I'm certain to discourage interchanging parts without going to Deere. The crank with the Deere taper is available for the Honda but requires disassembling a brand new engine to install it or ordering a special engine from Honda.

The one drawback of this process I'm afraid is that I will loose top end speed. The Briggs in my Gator is governed to 4'100 rpm no doubt so Deere could advertise a higher top speed but also possibly contributes to it's tendency to blow head gaskets. The Honda is governed mechanically and electronically so 3'600rpm will be it's limit. My region is rather hilly and the 550's top speed drops dramatically when climbing hills (it's only got 16hp after all) so I think overall trip time will average out to be about the same as the extra power will help maintain speed when climbing and during acceleration.

[Jake B]

Honda makes a great motor. I put a GX670 in my John Deere 400 lawn tractor about 9 years ago. Its run great!

I remember last year talking with a service tech at the local JD about rough idle and hard starts. He told me that all the carbureted models had problems and that was why they shifted to fuel injection. My HPX runs great after it warms up, but it takes a couple minutes of fast idle to get there.

I have thought about fuel injection for a re-power when the time comes. Mainly to make it easier to start (no choke) for my wife.

Please please post a re-power thread with pictures when you do yours. At close to 1800 hours on my HPX, the days are numbered yo the Kawi.

[Dane]

Thank you Bunky for the switch wiring information! I got into it far enough today to confirm that my switch matches the info you sent. Now I need to see where the wires in my Gator lead. At least I know I can make it work with the stock switch.