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dieselsmith
09-10-2014, 05:04 PM
I am looking into buying a used RSX 850i with under 500 miles but the owner says its not charging. It will run around until the battery dies then you are done. He had it at the dealer before with the same complaint and they replaced a relay under warranty now its out of warranty and he doesn't want to mess with it. What could it be the stator? Relay? Anyone else had this problem?

MBDiagMan
09-10-2014, 06:52 PM
I would expect that a competent auto electric shop could go straight to the source of the problem in short order. That's what they do ll day long. Most general repair shops are not as savvy and experienced with the starter/alternator specialty.

dieselsmith
09-10-2014, 09:15 PM
I really don't have one around, dealer maybe? Anyway to diagnose myself?

MBDiagMan
09-11-2014, 09:09 AM
Use a digital voltmeter on the DC Volts scale. With engine off, measure battery just to check volt meter and see that the battery is at some state of charge. You should find somewhere between about 11 and 12.5 volts. Start the engine and measure across the battery with the engine running. A charging system in proper shape should read about 13.2 to 14.5 Volts DC indicating that the alternator is charging the battery. If it does not show in this area with engine running, then the alternator is not charging or there is a problem in the alternator circuit. If it is still showing the 12Volts or so across the battery. Put one lead on a good ground and the other on the output of the alternator. If you are seeing you charging voltage (13.2 to 14.5) there, then check all the connections from there back to the battery. If you are getting proper charging voltage with engine running, you need to take the battery most anywhere batteries are sold and have them test it. If the battery is good, AND you have good charging voltage, then there is most likely a current draw. To test this make SURE you know what you're doing because you will need to use an ammeter in series with a disconnected battery terminal and the battery post. If you don't know what you're doing, you can blow the meter. If you can use an Ammeter, then with the ammeter in place and showing anything more than a tenth of an Amp you have a rogue current draw going on. With the ammeter connected and showing excessive current draw with all switches off and engine dead. Remove fuses one at a time and see if removing a fuse causes the current draw to go away. If it does, there is a short circuit somewhere in the circuit supplied by the removed fuse. Hope this helps.

MBDiagMan
09-11-2014, 09:13 AM
BTW, most dealer service departments, whether, truck, tractor or automotive don't have truly skilled electrical diagnosticians like an Auto Electric shop. At the Auto Electric shop, that's most of what they do all day long. Most dealers have parts changers, and they know the breed as to the common symptom/cause scenarios with that particular breed. For them when it's not a common problem, all they can do is guess at which expen$ive part to change.

dieselsmith
09-11-2014, 04:59 PM
Thanks for the info, I wish there was an auto electric shop around. There really isn't that I know of. I'm going to take the gamble and buy it anyways. 2013 camo rsx sport with the roof and 444 miles. I wonder if it is the relay again?

MBDiagMan
09-12-2014, 06:49 AM
Make sure you use this known problem as a hammer when you're negotiating the price. They should be anxious to unload it. You can bet that they have tried to solve this problem and are frustrated. If you can't drive a really good price, you should find and buy a known good one.

my $0.02,

dieselsmith
09-12-2014, 10:53 PM
I bought it pretty right. Runs good-sure is loud! I've got it on a battery tender right now. I hear about the fuse (40 amp) melting and causing problems. Maybe it was the fuse block melting? Not sure yet just got it home.

dieselsmith
09-12-2014, 11:02 PM
Parking break doesnt seem to work either is there a way to adjust it?

MBDiagMan
09-13-2014, 09:51 AM
I'm not familiar with that particular model but I expect that there is a nut and jam nut on one end of the parking brake cable to make it longer or shorter. Just find the cable from the brake lever and follow it to the other end.

hope this helps.

dieselsmith
09-14-2014, 05:33 PM
I checked with it running and not it was 12.2 not running and jumped to 13.5 running. Tried it again then the same both ways. Intermittently charging? I hate electrical crap. Found out too it has the super atv power steering which isn't working either.

dieselsmith
09-14-2014, 05:38 PM
I checked with it running and not it was 12.2 not running and jumped to 13.5 running. Tried it again then the same both ways. Intermittently charging? I hate electrical crap. Found out too it has the super atv power steering which isn't working either.

MBDiagMan
09-14-2014, 08:20 PM
You said intermittent. Are you saying that it is not always 12.2 when not running and not always 13.5 when running? If so I fully expect that you have a loose or flaky connection somewhere. Check everywhere you can for a loose wire. You might even have a loose or disconnected ground strap somewhere.

hope this helps.

dieselsmith
09-14-2014, 08:33 PM
Not always 13+ when running. I had it spike up to 16+ once too. Its a cheap harbor freight volt meter but should still do the job. Sometimes it will read higher when running sometimes the same as if it were off. Power steering kind of works intermittently too but when it doesn't work its harder than hell to steer. Harder than normal

tenere67
01-03-2015, 06:21 PM
Mine is doing the same thing,,,BUT!! not all the time..Check your fuse under the hood and see if it is caroled.

dieselsmith
01-06-2015, 06:35 PM
Ended up being a broken battery terminal.