825i Build Thread

I thought I'd share the ongoing build of my 2012 825i
I have posted extensively on another site, but thought the folks here might benefit as well as I forge ahead

This is a focused build for what some will think is a bit out of the box. Allow me to explain. As a career military guy, one who has done 5+ years of combat duty in pretty nasty places, I started prepping with my Duramax truck build, property acquisition and so forth.
The Gator became a part of all that this past summer when I identified a need for a small highly mobile vehicle that could get me around while avoiding public roads as much as necessary.
With that in mind I ordered the 825i with pretty much every option, and have further modified it as you will see in the following pictures.

I've been paying attention to detail from a survival/utility perspective

Weapon storage, retention, and ease of access was an important design criteria for this build

...As was auxilliary fuel

Roto-Pack makes some neat containers. We already looked at the 3 gal gas can, here's the overhead first aid kit (Orange) and a general storage container festooned with survival type stuff.

Wow, pretty dead here...
3 days and no responses
Well nice knowing everyone...bye!

The site has been down for awhile. I just want to say nice build, That has given me some ideas to add to my toy. :Thmup:

Easy now:lol: - site has been down the last two days........

Cool machine you're building :Thmup: Keep posting.........

Paul

Thanks for the pics flyin6, you certainly have it rigged up. I am glad to be back on the site after it being down the last few days.
Jake

Yep I couldn't get on the last couple days myself. Nice looking rig, I like the fuel storage especially.:Thmup:

preparing for the zombie apocalypse? How did you make that AR mount? I've been looking for a way to mount mine but havent found anything that really grabs my attention yet.

"flyin6"
"Wow, pretty dead here...
3 days and no responses
Well nice knowing everyone...bye!"

Trust me, majority of these member love modificaitons and we get some great ideas from individuals such as your self. However, when dealing with eletronics, you know as well as I, they can go into outter space. Now with that said....

You have one hell of a machine there and it shows the thought you have put into as the labor of love. What are your plans with the machine?

I have an 825i too, modified for my needs which is metal detecting. I do have to get some more grips to hold extra detectors. I just found out I can take the 825i of the coast of NC to "Cape Lookout", over 40 miles of beach with hardpack. I am excited my friend.

We do hope to hear from you again! I bet the delay is because you are in the middle of some more major mods, cna't wait to see.

Larry in NC

Nice looking rig!:cool:

Where did you get the storage containers that are in the cab..(orange/green)

thanks

I emailed him, hopefully he comes back.

OK, got the email, and the explanation for the inactivity.
I thought this site might be a good place to post all these and future mods up, but it seemed pretty dead initially with no responses at all. I did notice an abnormal response to logging in and so forth, but now it's clear.

OK to answer a few questions:
M4 Mount is home made, sheet metal work plus a readily available barrel mount

Zombie apoc... hardly, Meltdown of our culture and society: possible. That's what the thing is for plain and simple.
My background: 25 years Army some special operations aviation, 5 more years contract helo pilot in Afghanistan and Iraq, all combat time. I know a thing or two about when things go bad, so I'm getting ready.

The vehicle build is all based on tactical needs, but it is great for fun and work as well. I plan to modify it to an extent the gator platform has never been pushed.
On the short lost is the:
* addition of a rear spare tire and water can rack
*Roof Rack
* Tent camo system
* Digital night camo
* Turbo charged engine
* Snorkel system
* Completely changed air inlet system
* New clutch
* Possibly new gears
* Goal of 70mph top speed
* Aux fuel tank
* Water methanol injection
** If the engine thing proves too much perhaps the removal of the Cheryl engine and the addition of a Suzuki power plant or perhaps a turbocharged diesel.

I have posted the entire build over at DuraMax Forums, Here's a link:

https://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/po...ld-thread.html

While I'm thinking about it, let me engage you smart guys gray matter!

Speaking of gears, I thought the diesel and the gas motor would have mugo different ratios, however, comma, according to my JD store the diff for the 855 and the 825 seems identical!
Correct????

Secondly, what can/are we doing about the clutching. THis little three cyl is spinning up pretty hard already, I believe it could use a lot longer clutch, yielding a thousand RPM less for the 44mph top end. Who is offering a fix for that?

Looking at the intake system of this Chery engine it is choked down big time. I'll bet there is 10%-20% more power with an improvement there alone.
For my turbo system, I plan to weld up my own headers to attach the T-15 Garrett turbo to, then make a 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust into a big turbo muffler.
I plan to use an automotive air box with a K&N and provide for a 2.5" to 3" intake piping to an enlarged throttle body. Like I said If I blow the whole thing up, no worries, I'll just build it better the second time. I think 100Hp is easily attainable out of a high winding boosted 3 cyl and 150HP well within the relm of possible!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Landscaper

Nice looking rig!:cool:

Where did you get the storage containers that are in the cab..(orange/green)

thanks

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Roto-Pac
https://www.rotopax.com/

team clutch has a replacment but it only lowers rpm a few hundered and adds like 4 mph they have a replacment spring for the clutches avail also but last time i called them to order one i about drove to detroit lakes mn and choked the :mad: out of the dickhole on the phone.. not impressed with the customer service. I havent seen a turbo kit for the 825i but if u get one built I know u could sell some if the price is decent id love one for mine, just an idea but if u get one built and no issues with it and start selling a kit let me know,have u looked at www.pullpal.com btw nice ride

Quote:

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Originally Posted by osiris

team clutch has a replacment but it only lowers rpm a few hundered and adds like 4 mph they have a replacment spring for the clutches avail also but last time i called them to order one i about drove to detroit lakes mn and choked the :mad: out of the dickhole on the phone.. not impressed with the customer service. I havent seen a turbo kit for the 825i but if u get one built I know u could sell some if the price is decent id love one for mine, just an idea but if u get one built and no issues with it and start selling a kit let me know,have u looked at www.pullpal.com btw nice ride

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I'm not buying a turbo kit...too easy to do yourself. I know it would be engineered corectly if I did it. Not interested in selling any. Perhaps share the info for the do it yourself crowd. All selling gets you are customers that expect a lifetime commitment and your first born all for free. Been there did that, then I learned about my fellow man...:Ysnd:

What results are we getting with the weakened springs?
4MPH for $500 is not a big return on the $$$$$

I have also been looking for some more performence out of my 825i love it but hate the lack of aftermarket support. Have looked some into an engine swap Chery makes a 1000cc three, same size have seen it in sand buggies but have not found a place to get one from, the Kubota diesel also intrests me (Kubota 05 Series D1105-T-E3B) it will fit but weight might be an issue I know could get lots of power out of the diesel. I have a feeling the drivetrain could not stand up to a diesel they are much harder on parts when turned up vs a gas engine unless you could fit compounds which I do not see fitting.

Another area I am looking at improving is the front A-arms a boxed adjustable aluminum set with 2" of lift built in would really help the front end cast iron is great but should not be un-sprung weight. I did install the Fox shocks and love them, I replaced the springs with a dual spring set up with slider, the last thing I want to do is find a way to install air bump stops in the front.

The clutch was designed with Team Industries they tried to come out with a clutch, but most people wanted slower and lower RPMs which is not going to work with this engine coupled to a CVT. I put 30" tires on mine not sure about top speed but can get above 44.

That 1000cc Chery engine would be the ticket if it is dimensionally about the same, but then again, where?
Have thought about bigger diameter tires as well, but in my build mission statement, spare parts readily available is a mandate, so I'm staying stock 27" tire size.
RPM'ing the engine would certainly get more speed, but the thought of cruising around at 7,000 doesn't appeal to me much. Having the engine grenade beneath my two passengers would be undesireable to say the least.
The gator definately needs a lift. Just to get things farther off the ground. I have Fox shocks as well, single springs and have my collars cranked all the way out in the front which is only yielding an inch over stock...

Here is the link to Chery motors (https://www.cheryacteco.com/en/Link) you need to click on the powertrain manual in the lower left for the specs. I have also seen this manifold (Link)

This place sells buggies with the Chery engines maybe they would sell one have to look at all the diminsions sometime... (Link) but 86 hp would be nice.

I was not saying increase the RPM's it just does not like being below 3000 RPM with the CVT even cars with a CVT will run higher.

You have a lot of weight without four more people your best bet would prob be getting new springs then you could get 1 1/2" to 2". Eibach or King both sell replacement springs.

The primary and secondary clutches on the gator are a lot like those of a snowmobile. With springs, weights, and helix you can tune the clutches for maximum performance depending on the condition. You can also change the gearing on a sled to match conditions, and track length. I would assume that you could do the same with the gator's clutches. A good starting point would be to cross reference the part numbers on the gator clutches with those of a snowmobile. Once you know what sleds that clutch is used on you can find all sorts of spring and weight kits for cheaper on the internet than Team Clutch charges for the gator application. I'm not sure of the gearing in the gator, but I would assume it could handle the extra speed.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ratrod

The primary and secondary clutches on the gator are a lot like those of a snowmobile. With springs, weights, and helix you can tune the clutches for maximum performance depending on the condition. You can also change the gearing on a sled to match conditions, and track length. I would assume that you could do the same with the gator's clutches. A good starting point would be to cross reference the part numbers on the gator clutches with those of a snowmobile. Once you know what sleds that clutch is used on you can find all sorts of spring and weight kits for cheaper on the internet than Team Clutch charges for the gator application. I'm not sure of the gearing in the gator, but I would assume it could handle the extra speed.

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...Good info
I've looked at the diesel clutch and the gas clutch of several models and yup, they are different.
I actually own a 2007 850D as well. Was thinking about swapping some parts at one point. THing is I don't understand the science of this CV clutch deal vs a standard transmission and rear gears (which I understand very well)
Given time, I will be able to figure it all out, but for now, it's learning time.

That is Bad A*s I got some great ideas after seeing your Gator. I am getting mine set up, but time and money is slowing me down. Nice set up Bro. Gator Joe

Here a write up on how the CVT works... It is long but clears up a lot. The Polaris Ranger weights are supposed to work with the John Deere but do not know for sure... Your biggest issue is going to be weight combined with added power. I am trying to lower the weight of mine as much as I can, not a possibilty for you. I would carry spare belts they are not much and easy to change I think I paid $65 from the dealer...

The CVT is designed to start in the lowest gearing, and then gear up until top speed is reached for the given engine output. At a stop, the primary sheaves are spaced at the maximum distance, causing the belt to go to the lowest point on the sheaves. The secondary sheaves are together except for the distance the belt doesn't allow them to move. This causes the belt to be towards the outer edge of the secondary sheaves. This creates the greatest mechanical advantage. It's much the same as starting off in 1st gear in a conventional transmission. Once you start moving, the transmission will automatically adjust that gearing ratio to balance the engine torque output with the resistance of the wheels.

The ratio changes because of the physics of the clutch.

The primary consists of the two sheaves I mentioned before. One is fixed, and the other moves in and out on a collar. When it moves inward, the V gets tighter between the sheaves. This causes the belt to rise in the primary. The higher in the primary it moves up, the further the belt travels per rotation, increasing the speed of the belt.

The secondary responds to the primary belt height. The secondary also has a fixed and movable sheave as well. The difference is that the secondary also has a spring in it to force the plates together. The belt doesn't stretch much, so as the belt rises in the primary, it wedges the the secondary sheaves apart and moves close to the center of the sheaves. This causes the secondary to increase rpms. This means the ATV goes faster.

When working together. The Primary squeezes increasing the belt speed, and the secondary spreads, increasing the output speed.

What causes the primary to squeeze the belt and gear up is centrifugal force. At the end of the primary movable sheave is a fix plate. It's bolted securely to the end of the shaft. The Moveable sheave slides on the fixed plate and collar, with 8 weights between the plate and sheave. The weights act like wedges. As the RPM of the primary increases, the weights are forced outward and slide inside the channels on the primary sheave. This causes the weights to wedge against the sheave, forcing it inward towards the fixed sheave. Greater RPM's = Greater squeezing force.

Now you're probably wondering why the transmission wouldn't just gear all the way up when the engine increases RPM right?

The magic happens in the secondary. Although the spring keeps tension on the movable sheave, pushing it towards the fixed sheave, there is also extra force created by shaft resistance. This resistance is transferred from the wheels through the final drive gears, and then onto the secondary. On the secondary, the movable sheave is also mounted with pins that move inside corkscrew like channels. When a load is applied to the wheels from acceleration, a hill, or mud, that load utilizes the corkscrew action to increase the pressure on the secondary movable sheave. When this pressure exceeds the force the weights create on the primary, it will hold the lower gearing until the weights overcome this resistance.

So to summarize it for you. The weights cause the primary to squeeze harder as the RPM's increase. The secondary resists this gearing up based on spring pressure and resistance created by the corkscrew affect due to resistance on the tires do to acceleration, hills, or mud. It always finds that perfect balance.

Now that you know how it works, lets mess with it to make it do what we want. Since the CVT is tuned for stock everything, it needs to be tuned when tires, weight, or engine torques is changed. If you don't, you're not getting the most from your machine, or your mods.

Lets start with the primary:
You can modify the primary by changing weights, machining sheaves, adding shims and modifying the cam plate.

The weights determine the shift up of the primary. Lighter weight hold lower gearing longer, and heavier weights cause it to gear up sooner. Your goal is to weight the machine to hold your gearing under full throttle just below peak torque on a flat road. This way, when resistance is created by a hill, extra weight, or mud, the machine will hold the gearing longer, putting you in the peak torque of the engine under full throttle. Hell ya!

Shims and machining. By adding shims or machining, you can increase the lowest gearing substantially by spacing the primary sheaves apart, allowing for the belt to drop lower in the primary, and rise higher in the secondary. Shims will lower the gearing range entirely, so top speed will be lost. Machining can be done to lower gearing to increase the gearing range without losing top end speed. This is done by only machining the inner part of the sheave, and leaving the out sheave the same. Other machining removes the from the whole face, lowering the entire gearing range like the shim mod. The benefits are that it keeps the sheave angle stock for decreased belt wear. (Mad Mike's mod #2)

Here's a guide on installing shims.
How to do the shim mod.

Fixed plate mod. If you've taken some meat off your sheave and lowered the gearing range, the fixed plate mod can restore your top speed. The tips of the fixed plate where the weights ride are bent in slightly at the ends. This allows the weights to push the movable sheave more in the top end, restoring your top speed gearing. (Mad Mike's mod #3)

Take a breather if your eyes are seeing double.

Secondary.
The only thing you really need to modify in the secondary is the spring. The spring assists the secondary with holding gearing, and downshifting. Since it takes pressure off the pins reducing the wheel resistance force needed to return the secondary to lower gearing, it will increase the downshift rate as the spring pressure increases. As a side affect, it does increase the primary force needed to overcome the heavier spring, so weights will need to be heavier for a heavier spring to maintain the up-shifting profile the weights create. The stronger spring also increases the pinching force on the belt reducing slippage and thus heat.

Now if you're deciding on tuning your clutch, you should follow these steps.

First, start with engine mods, cause what you want from your transmission will change with power output. Then I'd do the machining, shims, and fixed plate mod. This will determine the gearing range you're working with. Change it later, and you'll have to change everything else. Next would be your secondary spring. This will affect your weighting, but your weights won't effect your spring choice. Then finally, get your weights and tune your machine in to get the gearing set to the RPM peak that you prefer.

Remember, no gearing set up is perfect for all. Rider weight, cargo weight, pulling weight, and riding conditions all have their affects on what RPM the transmission will shift best at.

Wet clutch springs can also be changed to increase wet clutch engagement RPMs. Gets you into the power a little sooner. The wet clutch is just 5-6 shoes or blocks that are pushed outward be centrifugal force. When RPMs overcome the springs holding the shoes in, they connect with the clutch housing and engage the crank with the primary. Stiffer springs will increase this RPM engagement, and are found in 500+ and 1000+ RPM. 1000's are more for racing.

If you think about it, older snowmobiles from the late 70's early 80's were in the 340cc to 545cc range and they were putting out 40-60 horse power and they could reach speeds of 85 to 100mph. My Mountain Cat 1000 the secondary clutch spring is adjustable for different shift points, and you can buy different angled helix's to tune it further. Has anyone investigated the gators secondary to see if its adjustable?
I would think the ideal situation would be to leave the gators engine as stock as possible in the event something happens. Getting parts for a stock motor would be easier then having to modify parts or waiting for special order items to arrive. Any motor work would be time consuming, where as clutch work is made to be done on the trail. A spare clutch and belt(s) might set you back a few hundred bucks, but could be changed in a matter of minutes.

Well, after reading that short little summary about clutch mechanics...
I think I'm sticking with the plan to build the engine first.
It sounds like I am going to have to get smart on all things clutch to get the thing to run in it's new power band and produce sprint speeds consistient with what I think I might need.

So on that point, I spent a couple hours reading about the Chery 372 engine we have and am impressed with the fact that no one hot rods this engine. There are turbo charged 1100cc 4 cyl versions of the Chery engine out there and even available for sale from China. So at the moment I am not committed in any one direction, however my sense is that I should bolt on a Garrett T-15 turbo and spend some time figuring that out to give me something around a 100% horsepower increase. then figure out how to get the clutch to work with those characteristics.

The rods are forged so it should handle at least 10psi.

Nice build up on the Duramax, I have a 6.4 Ford it's amazing how much power the new diesels can make last run on the dyno was 632hp. Did you get a built trans? If not how does the Allison hold up? And your suspension install made me even more grateful for a solid axle.

Another question why a piston M4 over a SCAR 16 or 17. I personally love mine and they are accurate.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gatorman30

The rods are forged so it should handle at least 10psi.

Nice build up on the Duramax, I have a 6.4 Ford it's amazing how much power the new diesels can make last run on the dyno was 632hp. Did you get a built trans? If not how does the Allison hold up? And your suspension install made me even more grateful for a solid axle.

Another question why a piston M4 over a SCAR 16 or 17. I personally love mine and they are accurate.

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10psi, how about 14 or more?? It will hold. It's in the timing, mixture, and H20 injection. I have years of experience with grand nationals. Stock blocks at 25psi in the 650HP range.
I read about those forged rods, however couldn't find any info on those pistons. I looked at them but couldn't tell much. From what I know GM stood up Chery and put some money in that engine to make it bulletproof in the chinese market. That means it is likely over engineered. I think a painted interior of the block and forged rods hint at that. So I think I will be fine. I will monitor A/F ratio with a gage and program in a safety retard should it go lean.

My LML D-max is a great truck to be sure. It was pushing 507 at the rear wheels with 4.56 and just under 1000 ft lbs. Needless to say, it's plenty quick. I am keeping it there for now pending a trans. The 2011 and newer Allisons are uber strong, but not up to much more than I am pushing, so a fully build 6K trans is in the future. I plan to add twins at that time and call it a day. It's not a drag truck, but I want it to be spirited while carrying the extra heft.
I have read plenty about our injection pumps. For some reason they are failing in the powerstroke application but not in the D-Max. Strange... I do know you NEED to run Opti-lube or something very much like it (and not diesel kleen) to get some luge to the pump or it will fail in time. Check out the technicals on the optilube. You'll be surprised.

I have a lot of years "down range" and that's where I developed my opinion from. First you only need to shoot the most common ammo. So when you jump from 5.56 up to some of the military calipers, that's all well and fine until things turn south. Then you won't be able to get ammo.
In my view only buy weapins in the calipers of: .22LR, 5.56NATO, 9mm, .45auto, 7.62 X 39, 7.62 X 51, and 12 gage.
Considering that as an assumption, the AK is so much better of a weapon that our tiny .22's that I only have my M4's because there is ammo, and the setimental attachment. But the bad guys shot at me all the time with that AK, and I can tell you it is very destructive. Ammo is cheaper and does much. much more damage as well. On top of all that, they are cheap...end of story.
For bench racing, sure SCAR and gas piston M4 guns are cool, but give me my AK.

I do not know to much about Gas engines, more into the diesels and they are opposite lean runs cool rich runs hot... I think what I would focus on most is getting the turbo to light early (to be able to keep good all around CVT tuning)... I have heard very good things about the aerocharger 53 series I know people with them on there Polaris RZRs and Ranger. The nice thing about them is it is ball bearing, varible vane so quick spool up and self contained oil supply so no oil lines to run, and the custom build it to your specs. For an airfilter alot of the polaris companys make aluminum high flow venturi housing for a donaldson filter, the nice thing about they filter like no other and are on everything commercial so easy to find. Just my two cents, very interesting build my plan is to take the boat if something happens...

On your truck are you planning twins or compounds? And the HPFP pump you are thinking of is on the 6.7 Scorpion it and the LML use a Bosch CP4, the 6.4 international engine uses a Siemens K-16 HPFP have 105,000 tuned miles and no issues besides trans and broke an axle shaft (what I get for sled pulling locked). My next step is twin HPFP a second wastegate and have not decided on going to a 2.8 single turbo or larger compunds I have modified stocks now.
I know people with chevys who sled pull love PPE for trans builds and that is more abuse than I am sure you will put yours through. Do you have a aluminum or steel driveshaft? Have seen this happen before.Attachment 1887

I know what you mean by stopping power that is why I have the 16 and 17. Just much cheaper to shot and reload the 5.56 than 7.62. I have never been overseas due to a heart surgery when I was young. My brother is in 10th Special Forces Group and my Grandfather Retired from the Army and Coast Gaurd he was also a helo piliot and was awarded a Distinguished Flying Cross so have heard some stories...

I do not believe in piston AR's I think the sytems are to unique to each company and hard to find parts for and I believe they are less accurate than a DI gun. I have thought off and on about building a 456 socom AR but worry about finding Ammo sure can save the brass but that is only half. I have been very impressed with the Scars so far have about 4000 rounds through the 16 and no issue and it has no issue going from suppresed to normal which I like.

Very interested to see where your build goes... Hope to get some good ideas on the engine and CVT reminds me how much I have left on mine. Going to start working on new A-arms soon though.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gatorman30

I do not know to much about Gas engines, more into the diesels and they are opposite lean runs cool rich runs hot... I think what I would focus on most is getting the turbo to light early (to be able to keep good all around CVT tuning)... I have heard very good things about the aerocharger 53 series I know people with them on there Polaris RZRs and Ranger. The nice thing about them is it is ball bearing, varible vane so quick spool up and self contained oil supply so no oil lines to run, and the custom build it to your specs. For an airfilter alot of the polaris companys make aluminum high flow venturi housing for a donaldson filter, the nice thing about they filter like no other and are on everything commercial so easy to find. Just my two cents, very interesting build my plan is to take the boat if something happens...

On your truck are you planning twins or compounds? And the HPFP pump you are thinking of is on the 6.7 Scorpion it and the LML use a Bosch CP4, the 6.4 international engine uses a Siemens K-16 HPFP have 105,000 tuned miles and no issues besides trans and broke an axle shaft (what I get for sled pulling locked). My next step is twin HPFP a second wastegate and have not decided on going to a 2.8 single turbo or larger compunds I have modified stocks now.
I know people with chevys who sled pull love PPE for trans builds and that is more abuse than I am sure you will put yours through. Do you have a aluminum or steel driveshaft? Have seen this happen before.Attachment 1887

I know what you mean by stopping power that is why I have the 16 and 17. Just much cheaper to shot and reload the 5.56 than 7.62. I have never been overseas due to a heart surgery when I was young. My brother is in 10th Special Forces Group and my Grandfather Retired from the Army and Coast Gaurd he was also a helo piliot and was awarded a Distinguished Flying Cross so have heard some stories...

I do not believe in piston AR's I think the sytems are to unique to each company and hard to find parts for and I believe they are less accurate than a DI gun. I have thought off and on about building a 456 socom AR but worry about finding Ammo sure can save the brass but that is only half. I have been very impressed with the Scars so far have about 4000 rounds through the 16 and no issue and it has no issue going from suppresed to normal which I like.

Very interested to see where your build goes... Hope to get some good ideas on the engine and CVT reminds me how much I have left on mine. Going to start working on new A-arms soon though.

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You are a wealth of information!
On the D-Max: Aluminum 5" driveshaft, Compounds, using the stock turbo where it sits and another. I've heard that setup is easier on the drivetrain and lower EGT's. Right now running all the good stuff, manifolds, pipes and so forth seeing mid 1200's which is excellent for the LML. It should live for a long time. It runs the long life Amsoil on an oil sample program. Will incorporate same setup with the Gator. Dual filters, one a 90% bypass filtering around 3 microns, and the other their 10 or 12 micron unit.

I have looked at that aerocharger. Nice setup to be sure! I am partial to the Garret T-15 for this application although being their smallest turbo it is set up for 1 liter engines. THe cool part is that I can buy them for $190 ea, so I'll get a spare. I thought about just pulling that motor, and blueprinting it, porting the head, getting super strong 8.5:1 pistons and anything else I can think of to make it killer strong. I see where the turbo folks are pushing up to 230HP from the 800cc Razor engine, so the prospect of boosting our engine is pretty interesting. Another point on the aero unit is I really want a continuous oil flow to that turbo with a reserve cool down accumulator as well. I just don't want the thing to break down. Again aaai am also very tempted to find a good Yanmar and boost that beast and drop it in.
One of the things I do not like about the 825i is the fact that ir uses gas. I plan to make my own bio-diesel down on my farm which I could burn in a lot of things I own. Gasoline as you know won's last for long...
I'm with you on the quick spool. I'd like the power to come on quickly. It would be cool if the thing had enough power to spin it's tires on asphalt:BG:
I have worked with the 10th group in the past. Tell him you are chatting with a former Night Stalker. See what he tells you...
I wrote many of those stories in my book, "Distant Thunder"
Get a copy and send it to me and I'll sign it for you and him.

My thoughts for a turbo set up on the gator for your use would be to set it up with a large external wastegate and if your are going stand alone efi (I dont see any other way) know the settings for different boost levels that way if you can not find good gas you can turn the boost down through the wastgate... The water / meth is a good idea since winter washer fluid is everywhere it should be easy to find.

For the shocks the springs in the front are 11" by 2.5" id and 250lbs the rears are 10.5" by 2.5" id and 400lbs. The problem is replacement springs only come in 10" or 12" now I in my opinion the 12" will be a better fit you do not have to crank it down and put a bunch of pre-load on the springs. the rate is how much it takes it compress 1" I think I would go 275lbs or 300lbs on the front and the rear is harder since you are going longer and have a much shorter range of adjustment but I would think prob the 450lb or 475lb as they have a block height about the same as the 400lb. The best thing about the longer springs and higher weight is if you have a light load it will ride very good as there is less preload and if you have a high load you can adjust for it without a change in ride height. I prefer king springs but eibach makes very good springs as well, Poly Performence sells both.

Also another nice thing about the 825i is it has a ranger bolt pattern so you can get ranger spacers and run ranger 15" wheels so limitless tires but would prob need to go at 30".

Have you seen the PPE Oil Centrifuge looks pretty cool. Overkill in your case...

Where do you order the book from?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gatorman30

My thoughts for a turbo set up on the gator for your use would be to set it up with a large external wastegate and if your are going stand alone efi (I dont see any other way) know the settings for different boost levels that way if you can not find good gas you can turn the boost down through the wastgate... The water / meth is a good idea since winter washer fluid is everywhere it should be easy to find.

For the shocks the springs in the front are 11" by 2.5" id and 250lbs the rears are 10.5" by 2.5" id and 400lbs. The problem is replacement springs only come in 10" or 12" now I in my opinion the 12" will be a better fit you do not have to crank it down and put a bunch of pre-load on the springs. the rate is how much it takes it compress 1" I think I would go 275lbs or 300lbs on the front and the rear is harder since you are going longer and have a much shorter range of adjustment but I would think prob the 450lb or 475lb as they have a block height about the same as the 400lb. The best thing about the longer springs and higher weight is if you have a light load it will ride very good as there is less preload and if you have a high load you can adjust for it without a change in ride height. I prefer king springs but eibach makes very good springs as well, Poly Performence sells both.

Also another nice thing about the 825i is it has a ranger bolt pattern so you can get ranger spacers and run ranger 15" wheels so limitless tires but would prob need to go at 30".

Have you seen the PPE Oil Centrifuge looks pretty cool. Overkill in your case...

Where do you order the book from?

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Appreciate the information! You can't inagine how handy that specific stuff is regarding spring rates and lengths.
BTW, I too prefer King shocks. Had them build me several sets of 2.5 coil-overs in the past, all super duper parts!
I'm knee deep in a recent farm purchase, but when the real cold sets in in a few weeks, will be time for "country Don Fab works" to continue!
Yes, stand alone fuel system, definately. Open loop with a A/F monitor and safeties built in so I won't be stuck monitoring a gage all the time. It might grenade the motor, who knows, but I'll just build it stronger the second time around. Esternal wastegate, yes! Although I think the T-15 or the equivalent turbo also has an integrated wastegate.
Bolt pattern is 5 on 4.5" same as the jeep cherokee. Automotive wheels and tires are on every corner. 29"-30" would be my choice as well

The book is at Barns and Noble, Joseph Beth, and a host of book stores or order it on Amazon. Here's the link:

https://www.amazon.com/DISTANT-THUNDE.../dp/1908117281

Hope you enjoy it. Send it to me afterward and I'll sign it for ya!

Merry Christmas to all!

Took some months off from this build.
Doing the Duramax, a tactical camper/topper thing, fixing my case track-loader and a host of other things.
Probably won't get on this thing in ernest until it gets cold once again.
Anyway, I did go a little overboard with the paint...
Here's what happened:
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